We are dumping 20 years of industry knowledge onto one page. 20 Facts. 20 Questions. Zero fluff.
Everything you assume about flooring might be wrong. Here is the truth about Luxury Vinyl Plank.
Linoleum is made from linseed oil. LVP is made from durable PVC/SPC layers. Totally different tech.
SPC cores do not swell when wet. You can submerge a plank in a bathtub for a week and it won't change.
The thickness of the plank matters less than the "Wear Layer" (mil). 20mil is the commercial standard.
Like anything else, direct UV rays can fade LVP over years. Use blinds or UV-coated windows.
Even rigid cores expand/contract. Skipping the 48-72 hour acclimation is the #1 cause of failure.
LVP is a "floating floor." Heavy cabinets pin it down, preventing movement and causing buckles.
SPC (Stone Polymer Composite) is harder and more dent-resistant than WPC (Wood Polymer Composite).
LVP will "telegraph" (show) any bumps underneath it. Your subfloor must be flat within 3/16" over 10ft.
Most quality LVP comes with an attached acoustic pad that dampens foot traffic noise better than hardwood.
It resists scratches better than wood, but dragging a heavy fridge will still gouge it. Use sliders.
Modern, quality LVP (like we use) is FloorScore certified and free from harmful phthalates/VOCs.
Because it's inorganic, it won't grow mold like carpet or warp like wood in damp basements.
It's easier than tile, but locking mechanisms are fragile during install. One broken lock ruins the plank.
High-end LVP has texture that matches the grain picture perfectly (EIR), making it look real.
A damaged plank can be removed and replaced in the middle of the room by a pro without redoing the whole floor.
High-end LVP is now accepted in high-value homes and often preferred over damaged hardwood.
Most LVP has the pad attached. Adding extra soft padding can actually break the locking joints.
LVP on stairs requires special "bullnose" molding. It looks great but takes skill to install securely.
On average, LVP costs 40% less than installed hardwood, freeing up budget for other renovations.
A 20mil wear layer floor can easily last 20-25 years in a residential home with proper care.
You asked Google. Now a pro installer is answering.
Yes, usually. However, if your grout lines are deep or wide, the LVP will eventually sag into them (telegraphing). We usually skim coat the tile with a leveler first to create a smooth surface.
Cheap LVP from random online sellers might be. We only use FloorScore Certified brands (like Engineered Floors, Coretec) that are tested for indoor air quality and are safe for kids and pets.
No. Never. Steam mops force moisture and heat into the joints, which causes warping and delamination. It will void your warranty instantly. Use a damp microfiber mop and pH-neutral cleaner.
Total thickness matters for locking strength. We recommend at least 5mm-6.5mm total thickness. Anything thinner (3-4mm) often has weak locks that break easily.
No, it stays closer to room temperature than ceramic tile or stone, making it warmer underfoot, especially in Wisconsin winters.
Yes, unlike glue-down floors, you can walk on and furnish floating LVP immediately after install. Just use felt pads!
A "mil" is a measurement of the clear protective coating on top. 12mil is okay for light residential. 20mil is the gold standard for active homes. 6mil is garbage (don't buy it).
Maybe. SPC is stable, but extreme temperature swings (-20 to +100) can cause issues. Some brands are rated for it, others aren't. Check the spec sheet first.
Ideally, yes. It looks cleaner. If you don't want to, we can install "quarter round" molding to cover the expansion gap, but removing and resetting baseboards is the "pro" way.
It can be. Look for a floor with a textured grain (EIR). Smooth, high-gloss floors are slip-n-slides for dogs. Textured matte finishes offer better grip.
No. Floating floors need to float. If you pinch them under heavy cabinets, the floor can't expand and contract, leading to buckling in the middle of the room.
Heavy rolling loads can stress locking mechanisms. For wheelchair use, we often recommend a Glue-Down LVP option rather than floating, just to be safe.
Very flat. The industry standard is usually 3/16th of an inch over a 10-foot radius. Any dips deeper than that need leveling compound.
Yes, but avoid rubber-backed rugs as they can sometimes cause a chemical reaction that stains vinyl yellow. Use felt or non-staining backing.
It maintains it better than old carpet or damaged wood. While real hardwood is still the "premium" king, high-end LVP is now widely accepted as a quality finish in modern appraisals.
Vacuum (no beater bar) or sweep. Mop with a pH-neutral vinyl cleaner. Avoid wax, polish, or oil soaps like Murphy's, which leave a film.
Most SPC floors are approved for hydronic (water) radiant heat, provided the surface temp doesn't exceed 85°F. Electric mats are trickier—check the manual.
This usually means the subfloor is uneven. When you step, the plank bends into a dip, causing the lock to rub or click against its neighbor.
Yes! A professional can cut out the damaged board and adhere a new one in its place without taking apart the whole room.
A standard living room can often be done in a day. A whole house (1500 sq ft) might take 3-5 days depending on the prep work needed.
